2015 Cannondale Trigger 27.5 Carbon Black Inc. [Features and Specs]

The Most Versatile of Cannondale's Bikes Ever Made and the Only Bike You Need in Your Garage. 

Unlike other so-called “quiver killers” the all-new Trigger doesn’t need to compromise between too much travel and too little, too steep geometry, or too slack. Its new and improved Fox DYAD rear shock gives the rider the perfect travel and geometry for whatever terrain they’re attacking.

Attitude Adjust

Adjustable Geometry

One of the key functions of the DYAD rear shock is that it enables the rider to adapt the geometry of the bike on-the-fly for the best climbing or descending experience. We call this Attitude Adjust. In Elevate Mode, the geometry is steeper for a more efficient pedaling position and better front-end control on steep climbs. In Flow Mode, the geometry gets lower and slacker to attack aggressive descents. 

 

SuperMax

The Bigger, Badder Lefty

Everything that makes our tried-and-true Lefty great is what makes SuperMax the best performing fork in its category. It’s lighter, stiffer, stronger, smoother and less maintenance than the competition. You simply can’t beat that. 

 

BallisTec

Carbon

BallisTec is Cannondale's high-strength, high-stiffness carbon construction. It starts with a base structure composed of ultra-strong fibers originally created by the military for ballistic armoring, and high-strength, high-impact resins similar to what is used in the construction of carbon baseball bats. Ride-feel tuning and stiffness comes from precision addition of high and ultra-high modulus fibers and the result is some of lightest, stiffest and toughest frames out there.

DYAD

The World’s Only True 2-in-1 Shock

DYAD’s unique dual-shock technology lets you transform your bike on the fly from long travel to short travel and back again, depending on your mood and whatever the trail is throwing your way. Where other bikes are forced to use one middle-of-the-road travel and geometry for both climbing and descending, DYAD doesn’t compromise. With its dual modes, Elevate and Flow, it delivers the right shock response and the right geometry at the right moment.

ECS-TC

Pivot System

The more laterally stiff a frame is, the better it responds to rider input. A stiffer bike pedals more efficiently and corners more precisely. On many bikes links, bearings and axles flex and rotate relative to each other, and these small factors all combine to negatively influence lateral stiffness. We solved this with our patented ECS-TC™ system.

Frame: Trigger 27.5, 140/85mm, BallisTec Hi-MOD Carbon, PF30, ISCG03, 1.5 Si headtube
Fork: SuperMax Carbon PBR 2.0 140 27.5, w/ Hybrid Needle Bearing Tech, 50mm offset
Rear Shock: Fox DYAD RT2 140/85mm adj. travel 2015 tune
Crank: Cannondale HollowGram SiSL2 BB30A XX1 30T w/MRP 1x guide
Bottom Bracket: Cannondale Alloy PressFit30
Shifters: SSRAM XX1 11 Speed
Cog Set: SRAM XX1 10-42 11-speed
Chain: SRAM XX1
Rear Derailleur: SRAM XX1
Rims: ENVE Carbon 650 AM tubeless ready
Hubs: Lefty SM front - DT-Swiss 350 rear hub rear 32 hole
Tires: Schwalbe Racing Ralph Evo SnakeSkin 27.5x2.25inch tubeless ready
Brakes: Magura MT8 w/ Storm SL rotors 180/160mm
Handlebar: ENVE Comp Flat carbon 740mm
Stem: Cannondale C1 1.5inch 31.8 5 deg.
Headset: Cannondale HeadShok Si
Spokes: DT Swiss AeroLite
Grips: Cannondale Foam Locking Grips
Saddle: WTB Silverado Carbon
Seat Post: RockShox Reverb Stealth dropper 31.6

8850 Stockdale Hwy.
Bakersfield, CA 93311
(661) 883-6268
info@finishlinebikes.com
www.finishlinebikes.com

Brand New 2015 Aero Bike From Colnago - the V1-R

Following the release of the new C60 just a few months ago, Colnago have just launched the V1-R, their lightest ever frame with a claimed weight of 835g!

-Article and Photos from Road.cc

The V1-r represents their first foray into the aero road bike market. The new bike also resurrects Colnago's partnership with Ferrari to select the carbon fibre, with the motoring company's crest displayed on the frame.


The V1-r is Colnago's first aero road bike. All the main tubes and fork blades have been shaped using NACA airfoils (airfoil shapes for aeroplane wings developed by the National Advisory Committee for Aeronautics), with a truncated shape, much like the Kamm Tail profile that is used by quite a few bicycle manufacturers. This tube shape is said to offer a decent aerodynamic performance while providing a good balance of weight and stiffness.

They’ve also followed in the footsteps of quite a few aero road bikes on the market in locating the rear brake caliper underneath the chainstays, leaving the area around the upper chainstays very clean. In another first for Colnago, they've adopted Shimano’s direct-mount brake calipers.

Colnago says these offer “better integration, both structural and aerodynamic, with the frame and fork” and saves weight and provides superior brake performance. They’ll use their own version of Shimano’s direct-mount caliper on SRAM and Campagnolo bikes, because neither of those companies produce one.

As we know, Colnago are fans of disc brakes on road bikes, and like the C60, which is offered in disc and a regular caliper version, the V1-r will also be offered in a disc flavour too. There are no pictures of that bike yet, but they do offer details, such as the use of the hexlock15 bolt-thru axle, developed by suspension manufacturer Manitou, on the disc-specific fork.

Unlike other bolt-thru axle standards, hexlock15 is really easy to use, simply requiring turning the quick release lever 90 degrees to release it. The frame will use a regular quick release rear axle, with the same carbon fibre dropouts as the rim brake version. The hydraulic hose will be internally routed. They use threaded inserts said to make installation and centering of the disc easy.

Colnago have designed a new fork to accommodate the new direct-mount brake calipers, which uses a pair of mounting holes (regular calipers use a single centre mounting hole). Like the frame, the fork blades have a truncated aero profile shape. There is space for a 28mm tyre, which is interesting because even on the C60 a 25mm tyre is a mighty close fit. The new fork uses a 1 1/4in-1 1/8in tapered steerer tube with machined aluminium bearing seats and aluminium dropouts.

The new frame uses carbon-fibre dropouts. When they released the C60, which uses alloy dropouts, Colnago claimed alloy dropouts were lighter, stronger and stiffer than carbon. We can only presume they’ve found a way of making a carbon dropout that is better in each of those departments than an alloy one.

Unlike the C60 which uses a 31.6mm diameter seatpost, the V1-r uses a new dedicated 27.2mm seatpost. It has the same truncated airfoil shape as the frame and uses a forged aluminium head as found on previous Colnago models. This is a move that puts Colnago on the same page as many manufacturers that have also moved to 27.2mm seatposts to achieve a bit more comfort.

At the bottom bracket the V1-r employs the same ThreadFit82.5 shell first revealed on the C60. It’s a wide bottom bracket shell with screw-in alloy cups to house the bottom bracket bearings and accepts any BB86 compatible crank from Shimano, SRAM, Campagnolo and FSA. The extra width of the BB shell allows Colnago to increase the diameter of the down tube, seat tube and, of course, the chainstays, increasing frame stiffness.

Other details include cables that are routed internally and the bike is fully compatible with mechanical and electronic groupsets, with interchangeable plugs at the top of the down tube where the entry ports are located.

Compared to the C60, the V1-r looks to be aimed more at racers who want a faster, lighter and stiffer bike. We can expect to see Europcar racing this bike in the upcoming Tour de France, and it’ll be interesting to see the split between the V1-r and the C60. Colnago haven't published any claims for its aero performance in a wind tunnel. We've contacted Colnago to get some more details on that.





The V1-r be offered in eight sizes with a 52 sloping providing a 55cm horizontal top tube and a 567mm stack and 382mm reach. The head tube reinforces the frames race intentions at a short 166mm height, while the slightly longer 1,008mm wheelbase than same race bikes provide a bit more stability.








8850 Stockdale Hwy.
Bakersfield, CA 93311
(661) 883-6268
info@finishlinebikes.com
www.finishlinebikes.com

Disc Brakes 101 - Bike Maintenance Tips from Finish Line Bikes

Trickling down from the motocross world, disc brakes have now become popular on off-road bicycles. Discs provide powerful and reliable braking in all types of weather and terrain so they're ideal for trail riding. Plus, unlike rim brakes, discs aren't compromised should you hit a hole or land hard and bend your wheel. There are significant differences between discs and rim brakes, however. So here we provide an overview of how discs work, the different types, and basic maintenance instructions. disc brake rotor Disc brakes generate amazing stopping power even in the worst conditions because they utilize rotors (photo) attached to the wheel hubs, and calipers attached to the frame containing specially designed pads (also called "brake shoes"). Unlike the soft rubber pads used on rim brakes, discs use hard metallic- or ceramic-based pads that are less affected by water, mud and heat to achieve more consistent braking power. Additionally, some disc brakes use hydraulics (instead of cables); for even greater stopping power.

Types

Mechanical Disc Brakes

Mechanical discs use the same cables and housing found on traditional cantilevers and V-brakes. Cables offer certain advantages over hydraulic systems, including simpler installation and adjustment, lighter weight, and less complicated maintenance (cables can be found at any bike shop and are less expensive than hydraulic lines). The main drawback to mechanical brakes is cable stretch, which causes a spongy feel, reduces braking power, and forces more frequent adjustment. Cables and housing are also susceptible to rust, dirt, and debris buildup that can bind the braking system. These problems are completely avoidable though. And the basic maintenance tips that we offer here will keep your mechanical discs strong and reliable.

Hydraulic Disc Brakes

Hydraulic discs feature a closed system of hoses and reservoirs containing special hydraulic fluid to operate the brakes. When the lever is activated, a plunger pushes the fluid through the hoses and into the caliper where the pads are pushed onto the rotor, stopping the bike. The advantage of hydraulic systems is being sealed (or "closed") so that water, dirt or debris can't compromise the brakes, making them very maintenance free once they've been properly installed. Also, hydraulic brakes have a silky smooth feel at the lever and incredible gripping power at the business end. For drawbacks, hydraulic brakes must withstand extremely high pressure, so expert set-up and frequent inspections are essential. The smallest air bubble or leak in hydraulic discs can cause a loss of power or complete failure. And, the process of removing air from the braking system, called "bleeding," varies between individual systems and can be a delicate process. So it's best to bring your bike in and have us help.

The Two Types of Calipers

Maintenance and Troubleshooting

NOTE: While disc brakes work wonderfully even in extreme conditions, it's still important to keep them in tip-top shape. Following are basic suggestions. Different types of discs may require specific maintenance not covered here. One basic tip isbe careful not to squeeze your brake lever when removing your wheels. The pads will contract and you won't be able to get the wheel back in. Also, when replacing any parts or fluids, it's crucial to make sure everything is compatible. And, because brakes are so important for safety, we do not recommend working on them unless you’re confident in your ability to do the job right. If you have any questions about disc brake adjustment please call or bring your bike in and we'll be happy to help. Inspecting And Cleaning The RotorsDirty, warped, cracked or otherwise damaged rotors are a common cause of brake failure. Rotors are rarely perfect, but if you find excessive wobbling (more than 1mm), cracks or gouges in your rotors, replace them immediately. A significant loss of braking power can also be caused by dirty or oily rotors or pads. Clean rotors and pads using only isopropyl alcohol. Other cleaners/degreasers can contaminate and damage the rotors or pads. If cleaning does not restore your braking power, replace the pads immediately. Squealing or noisy brakes is another common problem. It can be caused by loose bolts so start by checking all the bolts on the rotors and those attaching the calipers to the bike. Dirty pads may cause noise, too, so keep them clean. Still squealing? Check the alignment of the calipers over the rotors (see "centering the calipers" below). To check the rotors for dents or warping, spin the wheel and watch the rotors as they rotate past the pads. As long as the rotor does not rub, a slight lateral movement is acceptable. If the rotor rubs the pad in a spot, tap it lightly with a rubber or plastic hammer, or place a clean rag over the rotor and bend it slightly with an adjustable wrench. It doesn't take much, so don't overdo it! And remember: Never touch the braking surface of the rotor or pads with your bare hands because the oils on your fingers can decrease braking power. Adjusting Lever ReachMany new brake systems include adjustable-reach levers that allow customizing the distance from the handlebar grip to the brake lever. This usually involves turning a screw or bolt that connects the brake lever to the body. If the reach distance to each lever is uneven or one lever pulls farther than the other, try to equal out the travel by dialing the lever limit screws in or out (call or check your owner's manual for specific instructions). If the lever still feels spongy or pulls all the way to the bar, there may be air in the hydraulics. Time to bring it in and have us bleed the system. Finally, inspect all of the hydraulic hoses and fittings for leaks. If you find a leak, bring your bike in to us immediately. Checking Brake Pad Wear Removal: With the wheels removed, use your fingers or needle-nose pliers to grab the removal tabs extending below the inner brake pad (photo). Depending on the brake system that you're using, pull one or both pads straight out and toward the center of the caliper body until they're completely removed. The pads may also have retaining springs or magnets holding them in place that may come out. Inspection: If the remaining padding is thinner than the thickness of a nickel, you'll need new pads after a few more rides. If the pads are thinner than a dime, change them immediately. Insert the new pads into the caliper body the same way they were removed, making sure that the pads sit fully inside the caliper body. Warning: Do not touch or spill any fluids on the pads as skin oils or other fluids can cause a loss of braking power. Centering The Calipers (Preventing Brake Drag)The rotors need to be centered in the calipers to maximize braking power, eliminate drag and minimize noise. Some brakes use shims or thin washers on the caliper mounting bolts. For these brakes, add or remove shims to center the caliper over the rotor. Another popular mounting system uses a two-part bracket. To adjust the caliper position on these brakes, loosen the two centering bolts that attach the caliper to the mounting bracket, apply the brake lever and tighten the bolts. Hint: Try slipping business cards between the rotor and pads before applying the brakes to help center the calipers. While applying the brake, it may also help to gently shake the caliper body so it comes to rest in a centered position, then tighten the mounting bolts. Finally, spin the wheel and check if the rotor is centered. Repeat the adjustments if necessary. Pre-Ride Check List Inspect the brake rotors for dirt, debris, or fluids. Clean with alcohol if necessary. Spin both wheels and make sure the brake rotors are straight and not rubbing on the pads. Squeeze both brake levers to check for proper lever travel and solid pad contact with rotors. Inspect all hydraulic hoses and fittings for leaks once a week and before each ride. Now Go Ride!   8850 Stockdale Hwy. Bakersfield, CA 93311 (661) 883-6268 info@finishlinebikes.com www.finishlinebikes.com

Giant Showcase: TCR Advanced SL

Giant Packs the TCR Advanced SL With Features and The Latest Technology 

It’s no secret that the TCR Advanced SL wins a lot of pro races. But the reason for its dominance is something our competitors do keep secret: Giant is the only major manufacturer that controls every stage of design and production, from raw carbon thread to this finished racing machine. The others don’t—and the results speak for themselves. Tests show that TCR Advanced SL is the lightest, stiffest, best-riding road bike in its class. 

The all-new TCR Advanced SL shatters the mold of every composite bike that came before it. It uses Advanced SL-grade composite and innovative manufacturing techniques that make it the lightest, stiffest, and most efficient road frame ever produced by Giant. Steering precision is boosted by the new oversize OverDrive 2 headtube/fork combination. The MegaDrive downtube and PowerCore bottom bracket improve power transfer and efficiency. And the integrated seatpost, a hallmark Giant innovation, reduces frame weight and adds compliance. Ridden to countless victories by Giant pro riders, the TCR Advanced SL is a pure racing machine.

1. Giant's innovative oversized fork steerer-tube design increases front-end stiffness and enhances steering performance. The tapered steerer and oversized bearings( 1 /14" top - 1 1/2" bottom) boost torsional steering stiffness so you can sprint and corner with supreme precision.

2. As the pioneer of the integrated seatpost, Giant continues to improve its design with lighter weight (approximately 45 grams of weight savings, compared to a standard composite seatpost), improved aerodynamics and an even greater "tuned" forgiving ride feel. An adjustable saddle clamp offers 10 or 23 mm of offset for precise saddle position

3. Advanced SL toptubes are "grafted" to the seattube using filament winding and co-molding. This complex process involves hand weaving the two tubes together, then re-molding the area under heat and high pressure to unify the junction — resulting in a lighter, stronger junction than with traditional molding.

4. Carbon Nanotube Technology refers to a microscopic polymer added to Giant's custom-blended resin. Acting like miniature buttresses, CNT particles strengthen the layers of composite. Frames treated with CNT are 14% more impact resistant than those that aren't.

5. Continuous Fiber Technology is a new manufacturing process that allows Giant to construct the front triangle of Advanced SL bicycles with larger — and therefore fewer — sections of composite material. With fewer pieces and junctions, the frames are up to 100 grams lighter and significantly stronger.

6. Giant's all-new chainstay integrated wireless data transmitter is called RideSense. The fully integrated, removable transmitter sends wheelspeed and cadence information directly to any ANT+ compatible computer.

7. Giant's all-new composite bottom-bracket shell saves 15 grams over its alloy-reinforced predecessor, while all-new composite dropouts save an additional 15 grams. High-compression, multidirectional composite ensures long life.

8. Free of alloy tips, Giant's all-new composite fork and frame dropouts save 15 grams over their predecessors. High compression, multi-directional composite ensures long life — even after repeated clamping

Come check out our great selection of Giant, Cannondale, and Colnago bikes today!

8850 Stockdale Hwy.
Bakersfield, CA 93311
(661) 883-6268
info@finishlinebikes.com
www.finishlinebikes.com

Tips To Better Drivetrain Care

Preserve Your Drivetrain, Handle Shifts With Ease

Learning to use the equipment that comes with your bike is extremely important, as it will help you to enjoy your ride more as well as extend the life of those parts. Shifting is no exception, and we have a few tips to help you improve that aspect of your riding.

An important rule to remember is to - reduce your applied pressure on the pedals during shifts. As drivetrains have improved over the years, the have been designed to shift no matter how much pressure is put on the pedals. However, if you ease up on the pressure just a bit, the shifts will be smoother and your chain, cogs and chainrings will last longer.

Here are some more tips to help keep your drivetrain in great working order:

Keeping Your Drivetrain Clean:

Before we even get into proper shifting, it is important to make sure you keep your drivetrain clean and tuned up to extend the life of your drivetrain. We have chain cleaners for sale in the shop that can help get your chain clean and keep it that way.

Every six months or so, inspect your chain and measure to see if it has been stretching.

Pick a chain pin on the top side and measure to any pin 12 inches away. Links are exactly one-inch long, so you should be able to measure exactly 12 inches between two pins. If the measurement is 12 1/8 inch or longer, it's time to replace the chain.

(Check Your Cogs too!)
Remember: cogs wear out at about the same rate as the chain. If you put on a new chain, you will eventually run into skipping cogs - which is at best annoying and at worst dangerous!

Remember to keep the front rings and rear cogs clean. Stay on the lookout for a post about how to clean your chain and drivetrain!

On The Road Tips:

Shift Before Hills:

Even though the hardest place to put less pressure on your pedals is when you are struggling to get up a steep hill. Try changing gears before the steep part of the hill so you can make the shift with out stressing the chain and pedals.

Front Shifts:

Remember when you are shifting the front derailleur that the chainrings are significantly different in size! This means your derailleur has to work hard to move the chain from one to the other. If you can add some finesse to this shift, you are much more likely to get a clean, smooth shift. And, you'll eliminate problems associated with high pressure shifts such as having the chain come off.

There are three or four set spots (shift ramps/shift gates) on the chainrings to make it shift. The chain (while moving forward) needs to contact these ramps to be pulled up onto or down over the chainring. It is very important to hold the shift until the chain comes into contact with a shift ramp. When the chain is under load (meaning there is force on the pedals) this is the ony spot where the chain will shift. Ideally shifting should be done with little load on the chain. When the chain is under load the derailleur will just flex and laugh at you instead of making the shift happen. When there is no load on the chain the derailleur will be able to move it.


Getting Your Chain BACK On:

Usually, you can shift the chain right back on the chainring if it falls off. This is usually impossible when climbing a hill, as you will lose momentum and have to stop. However, any time you are riding and you can coast for a few seconds, you can almost always get the chain back on by gently pedaling and shifting the front derailleur to move the chain toward the ring.

(When a chain comes off repeatedly, something is wrong and you should have us take a look at the front derailleur adjustment.)

Come to Finish Line Bikes in Bakersfield, CA for all your cycling needs! We are located at:

8850 Stockdale Hwy.
Bakersfield, CA 93311
(661) 883-6268
info@finishlinebikes.com
www.finishlinebikes.com

23 Most Common Bike Problems

Bike Making Loud Noises You Can't Explain? We Have The Solutions.

1. You fixed a puncture, and the new tube keeps going flat

If the holes in the tube are in the
bottom, the rim strip may be out of position, allowing the tube to get cut by the spokes. If they're on top, there may be some small sharp object stuck in the tire. Find it by running your fingers lightly around the inside of the tire, then remove it.

 

 

2. A remounted tire won't sit right on the rim

Let the air out, wiggle the bad spot around, reinflate to about 30 psi, and roll the bad spot into place with your hands. By pushing the tire in toward the middle of the rim you will be able to see if any of the tube is poking out. When the tube is fully inside the tire, inflate as normal.

3. A patch won't stick to the glue on the tube

Apply more glue and let it dry completely, about five minutes (DO NOT BLOW ON THE GLUE) When you apply the patch, avoid touching its sticky side with your fingers.

4. A creaking sound from the wheels

A spoke may have loosened. If tension is uniform, the sound might be caused by a slight motion of the spokes against each other where they cross. Lightly lube this junction, wiping off the excess.

5. A creaking sound when you pedal

Tighten the crankarm bolts. If the arm still creaks, remove it, apply a trace of grease to the spindle, and reinstall the arm.

6. The large chainring flexes, and the chain rubs against the front derailleur cage.

Check for loose chainring bolts

7. You have removed the chainrings to clean the crankset, but now the front derailleur doesn't shift right. 

You may have installed a chainring backward. Remove the rings and put them on correctly. Usually, the crankarm bolts fit into indentations on the chainrings. Sight from above too, to make sure there's even spacing between the rings.

8. While trying to remove or adjust a crankarm you stripped the threads- Now you can't remove it

Ride your bike around the block a few times. The crankarm will loosen and you'll be able to pull it off.

9. Shifter housing rubs the frame, wearing a spot in the frame

Put clear tape beneath the housings where they rub.

10. Noisy sloppy shifting can't be remedied by rear derailleur adjustment

The cassette lockring might be loose, allowing the cogs to move slightly and rattle around on the hub. You need a special tool to tighten the lockring fully, but you can spin it tight enough with your fingers to ride safely home or to a stop.

11. The cog cassette is getting rusty

A little rust won't damage the cogs quickly, so it's not a major concern. Usually, using a little more lube will prevent additional rust, and riding will cause the chain to wear away the rust while you're pedaling.

 

12. In certain gears, pedaling cause loud skipping

There may be debris between the cogs. If you can see mud, grass, leaves, twigs, or any sort of foreign matter trapped between cogs, dig it out. It's probably keeping the chain from settling all the way down onto the cog to achieve a proper mesh. If there's no debris, a cog is probably worn out. Most often this is a sign that the chain and cassette will have to be replaced.

13. Front derailleur won't shift precisely to a chainring

Check that the cage is parallel to the chainrings (when viewed from above), and loosen and reposition the derailleur if necessary. If it's parallel, you probably need to adjust the high- and low-limit screws, best done by a shop.

14. The rear derailleur makes a constant squeaking noise

The pulleys are dry and need lubrication. Drip some light lube on the sides, then wipe off the excess.

15. Braking feels mushy, even though the pads aren't worn out

The cable probably stretched. Dial out the brake-adjuster barrel (found either on the caliper or on the housing closer to the lever) by turning it counterclockwise until the pads are close enough to the rim to make the braking action feel as tight as you want.

16. Braking feels grabby

You probably have a ding or dent in the rim. This hits the pad every revolution, causing the unnerving situation. Take your bike into the shop.

17. One pad drags against the rim or stays significantly closer to the rim than the other

Before messing with the brakes, open the quick-release on the wheel, recenter the wheel in the frame and see if that fixes the problem. (This is the most common solution.) If the wheel is centered but a pad still rubs, you need to recenter the brake. On most modern brakesets this is done by turning a small adjustment screw found somewhere on the side or top of the caliper. (There may be one screw on each side, as well.) Turn the screw or screws in small increments, watching to see how this affects the pad position. If you center the brake and the wheel, and a pad still drags on the rim, it probably wore unevenly from being misadjusted; sand the pads flat and recenter everything. 

18. With each pedal stroke you hear a click coming from the saddle

The pedal may have loosened. Tighten it.

19. Squealing Brakes

Wipe the rim to remove any oil or cleaning reside. If this doesn't work, scuff the pads with sandpaper or a file. Still noisy? The pads need to be loosened, then toed in; an adjustment that makes the front portion touch the rim before the back- an easy fix for a shop, a tortuous process for a first timer.

20. Creaking Saddle

Dip a tiny amount of oil around the rails where they enter the saddle, and into the clamp where it grips the rails. Heritage purists take note: Leather saddles sometimes creak the same way that fine leather shoes can. There's not much you can do about this.

21. You can never remember which way to turn the pedals

Treat the right-side pedal normally — righty-tighty, lefty-loosey. The left side pedal has reverse threads (to keep it from unscrewing during pedaling). If that's confusing, just remember this simple phrase: Back off. This can remind you that, with the wrench engaged above the pedal, you ALWAYS turn toward the back of the bike to remove the pedal. 

22. You installed a pedal into the wrong crankarm - The left pedal into the right arm or vice versa

You can remove the pedal, but the crankarm will have to be replaced; its threads are softer than the pedal's and are now stripped out. ALWAYS check the pedals before installing. There is usually an R for right or an L for left stamped onto the axle. 

23. You pulled apart your headset to regrease it, and now the headset feels tight no matter how you adjust it

The bearing retainers are probably in upside down.

Come to Finish Line Bikes for all your maintenance needs.

We are located at 8850 Stockdale Hwy. in Bakersfield, CA. 
You can reach us by phone at (661) 833-6268

www.finishlinebikes.com

Giant Launches World's Most Extensive 27.5 Off-Road Line!

A Total of Seven New Men’s Series and 28 Global Models Feature 27.5 Wheel Technology, Which Giant Has Been Developing For the Past Two Years.

Anthem 27.5 0

Giant, the world leader in cycling technology, is revolutionizing its 2014 off-road lineup with a full range of new bikes featuring 27.5-inch wheel technology. Some of Giant’s most recognizable and successful off-road models—including XtC, Anthem, and Trance—will now include 27.5 choices in both composite and aluminum frame options. Several prototype Giant 27.5 bikes have already been ridden to major race wins in pro XC and enduro competition.

XTC Advanced 27.5 2 (HardTail)

“The diversity and range of our new collection of 27.5 bikes shows how strongly we believe in this new technology,” said Kevin Dana, Giant Global Off-Road Category Manager. “That belief is founded on a lot of internal research and testing. We worked with a wide variety of riders—and from our World Cup XC pros to our enduro riders, all of them feel strongly that the end result is improved performance.”







Research and ride testing in different off-road racing disciplines, and in a variety of terrain, showed that the 27.5 wheel size delivers significant performance advantages in three key areas: weight, efficiency and control. Bikes with 27.5-inch wheels displayed some of the best characteristics of 26 and 29-inch wheels—but without the compromises associated with each.

Talon 27.5

Truly capitalizing on the advantages of 27.5 required a deep commitment to engineering and development. Giant’s team of engineers, product developers and athletes looked at each new model individually, dialing in the frame features and geometry to optimize the new wheel size for particular types of terrain and performance goals.







The end result is a full line of purpose-built 27.5 performance bikes for all different types of off-road riding. From the XC World Cup-proven XtC Advanced 27.5 hardtail to the trail and enduro focused Trance Advanced 27.5, each series has undergone extensive development from the ground up.

For elite-level Giant XC pros like Swedish national champion Emil Lindgren, the lighter weight and quicker acceleration offer a huge advantage.

Trance Advanced 27.5 2

“When you’re racing cross-country, you’re pushing the limits,” said Lindgren. “The heart rate is maxed and you want a bike that responds and makes the effort feel a little easier. Going from a 26 to a 29, there’s a big difference in the way the bike rides. But with 27.5, it’s the perfect balance of quickness and acceleration of a 26 with the traction and stability of a 29er.”

To meet the needs of racers like Lindgren and teammate Michiel van der Heijden, who recently won the Dutch XC Championships aboard a prototype 27.5 hardtail, Giant developed 27.5 versions of its XtC platform in both Advanced-grade composite (XtC Advanced 27.5) and ALUXX SL aluminum (XtC 27.5).

For technical XC terrain, Giant developed 27.5 versions of its legendary Anthem platform, available in both Advanced-grade composite (Anthem Advanced 27.5) and ALUXX SL aluminum (Anthem 27.5) frame options featuring Maestro Suspension with 4 inches of travel. Giant Factory Off-Road rider Adam Craig played a major role in the bike’s development, and rode his prototype Anthem Advanced 27.5 to a win at an Oregon Enduro Series event earlier this summer.

“For cross-country racing, the 27.5 offers a very clear advantage,” Craig said. “It’s not just about how fast a bike rolls, but how fast it can be in real racing scenarios, and that involves accelerating, braking, climbing, a lot of low-speed stuff. A bike that’s a little more nimble and quick is ultimately an advantage.”




For more aggressive trail and enduro riding—the type that Australian enduro racer Josh Carlson has been racing with his prototype Trance Advanced 27.5, which features 5.5 inches of Maestro rear suspension technology—the added control and stability makes a huge difference.

“It feels amazing,” said Carlson, who rode a prototype Trance Advanced 27.5 to several enduro race wins in North America this spring. “You can charge through rock gardens and gnarly terrain with total confidence that it’s going to be quicker and faster and safer than any bike you’ve ever ridden. You can come into corners quicker and exit with so much more speed.”

The Trance platform is also available with the Advanced-grade composite frame (Trance Advanced 27.5)or ALUXX SL aluminum (Trance 27.5). Both the Trance Advanced 27.5 and Trance 27.5 also come in an “SX” model for more aggressive, gravity-oriented riding.

In addition to all of the above off-road performance models, Giant is also making its 27.5 technology available to more riders of all levels with its full line of Talon 27.5 ALUXX aluminum hardtail off-road bikes.

For 2014, Giant is offering the following off-road series with 27.5 technology:

XtC Advanced 27.5 (Advanced-grade composite hardtail XC)
XtC 27.5 (ALUXX SL aluminum hardtail XC)
Anthem Advanced 27.5 (Advanced-grade composite full-suspension XC)
Anthem 27.5 (ALUXX SL aluminum full-suspension XC)
Trance Advanced 27.5 (Advanced-grade composite full-suspension trail and enduro)
Trance 27.5 (ALUXX SL aluminum full-suspension trail and enduro)
Talon 27.5 (ALUXX aluminum hardtail XC)

The 2014 Giant 27.5 off-road bikes will be available through Giant retailers later this summer. Model lineup and availability will vary by country.




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